Some wines go beyond leaving a good impression – they linger in your memory, glass after glass, year after year. I’ve had the privilege of watching these three Sicilian wineries grow from humble, heartfelt beginnings into something quietly remarkable. Rooted in their land and guided by passion, they’ve evolved without ever losing their soul. And through it all, I’ve stayed a devoted admirer. These are wines that still manage to surprise me, offer comfort, and turn even the simplest meal into something worth remembering.
What struck me most in these recent vintages is their exaggerated drinkability – that irresistible quality where the glass seems to empty itself. Each bottle carries the directness of fresh, vibrant fruit, while staying grounded in texture, freshness, and balance. These are deeply gastronomic wines: joyful with seafood, luminous with vegetables, and gentle enough for long conversations.
This post is a small tribute to the wines I hold dear – and to the people whose hands and hearts shape them. They’ve stayed deeply rooted in their land, and that authenticity comes through in every sip.
Give them a try – you won’t just taste Sicily, you’ll feel the connection to something real.
Cheers!
Some wines taste like a place. Generazioni Bianco 2024, made entirely from Carricante, is one of them. Just 800 bottles exist, and each one tells a deeply personal story of roots, resilience, and volcanic soul.
We’re in Milo, the heartland of Etna Bianco Superiore, perched on the eastern slope of Mount Etna. This is where Gloria di Paola tends to her vines with quiet determination and a profound respect for the land. She calls her wine project “tiny”—but don’t let that word fool you. What started during the uncertain days of the first COVID lockdown has evolved into one of the most quietly compelling Etna wine stories today.
The name Tre.Mi.La. isn’t just a brand – it’s a map, a tribute, and a philosophy. It stands for the three original vineyard plots: Trecastagni, Milo, and Lavinaio – but it’s also a nod to altitude (tremila means “three thousand” in Italian), referencing the lofty elevation of Etna’s slopes. The winery is the natural outgrowth of a family tradition rooted in these volcanic soils. Gloria and her father work the vines themselves, keeping everything manual and mindful—no tractors, no shortcuts, and absolutely no compromise when it comes to honoring the terrain.
The story began taking shape in 2018, with the first bottling in 2019: just 3,000 bottles of Carricante, Catarratto, and Nerello Mascalese, sourced from the family’s vineyard in Contrada Caselle (Milo, east side of the volcano) and a cherished plot inherited from her grandfather on the southern slope. By 2022, the project expanded to the western side, and Gloria is now in the process of securing a tiny parcel on the north slope – bringing full expression to all four sides of Etna.
Today, the estate spans 2.5 hectares under vine, with another half hectare soon to be planted. In the vineyard, Gloria farms sustainably with a low-intervention mindset: sulfur only in minimal amounts, zeolite and propolis to protect the leaves from volcanic ash, and green manure using field beans, mustard, and lupin to enrich the soil naturally. Nothing is rushed or forced here; even the original terracing has been preserved, which means all vineyard work is done by hand—or, at most, with a humble motor hoe.
Carricante in purezza – only 800 bottles produced
The 2024 Generazioni Bianco is a direct-pressed Carricante, fermented with wild yeasts and undergoing full malolactic fermentation, aged in a single egg-shaped fiberglass vat to preserve purity while building texture. It’s a wine that feels both radiant and grounded – like sunshine filtered through a volcanic mist.
On the nose, expect blossoms, honeycomb, white peaches, and yellow plums, with just a touch of Etna’s flinty smoke. The palate is layered and precise – fresh yet fleshy, with a mineral core that speaks of stone and time. There’s a tension between delicacy and depth, making it as appealing to those who crave a crisp sip as to those who linger for complexity.
This is a wine that longs for long tables, outdoor lunches, and seafood pulled fresh from the sea. Pair it with grilled fish, shellfish, or simply-prepared vegetables, and you’ll find the wine not only complements but amplifies the meal. It brings Sicily’s summer to your glass – vivid, generous, and undeniably alive.
Rosato 2023 – Bonavita
Some rosés whisper. This one sings. Rosato 2023 from Bonavita is firmly in the second camp – a rosé I’ve loved for years, and one I keep coming back to. Bold in color, generous in spirit, and uncompromising in identity, it’s one of the few rosés that truly feels like a voice from its land. I often hear people question darker-hued rosé – but I always say, if the grapes are full of character, why hide it?
This bottle is a proud expression of Faro Superiore, a hillside village overlooking the Strait of Messina in northeastern Sicily. Here, in this dramatic meeting point between the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, lies one of the most breathtaking vineyard settings I’ve ever encountered: nearly three hectares of steeply terraced vines surrounded by ancient oaks and chestnut forests. It’s a wild, secluded amphitheater carved into the hills, with sea air in its lungs and forest under its feet.
Giovanni Scarfone, the soul behind Bonavita, works only with native varieties: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Nocera – some vines are 10 years old, others more than 80. The grapes are trained as traditional bush vines (alberello) and espalier, with incredibly low yields: about 60 quintals per hectare. Farming here is certified organic, and everything is done by hand, with a firm commitment to preserving the native flora and fauna. Instead of synthetic fertilizers or herbicides, Giovanni uses green manure, legumes, and grasses sown each fall to enrich the soil naturally.
In the cellar, the philosophy is just as pure. No chemical additives, no shortcuts – just long macerations, spontaneous fermentations, and slow aging. The wine isn’t fined or stabilized. If necessary, a light filtration before bottling is the only touch.
A bold, beautiful rosé from the hills above Messina
The 2023 Rosato is a perfect reflection of this careful, grounded work. Its deep color is unapologetically vibrant, and the aromatics leap from the glass: wild herbs, crushed red petals, redcurrants, sea breeze, and a raw earthiness that grounds everything. The palate is rich and textured – juicy, structured, and mouthwatering – with a kind of wild energy that’s both fleshy and fast-moving. The medium-textured soils with layers of clay and calcareous tuff lend the wine its fine minerality and impressive structure.
It’s not just a rosé for aperitivo hour – it’s a real food wine, meant to be enjoyed with a full plate and good company. It shines with grilled seafood, tomato-based dishes, salumi, and even white meats. Elegant yet rustic, serious yet joyful, this is a rosé that fills the table with its presence.
For me, Bonavita’s Rosato is more than just a summer favorite. It’s a wine I’ve seen evolve year after year, always grounded in place, always true to its nature. And every time I open a bottle, it reminds me why I fell in love with Sicilian wine in the first place.
CalaNiuru 2023 – Mortellito
When I taste CalaNiuru 2023, what strikes me first is its effortless vitality – the kind of wine that feels like a breath of fresh Mediterranean air, alive with juicy fruit and silky smoothness. It’s a beautiful expression of two iconic Sicilian grapes, Frappato and Nero d’Avola, brought together with a light touch and a deep respect for the land.
We find ourselves in Val di Noto, southern Sicily, just a stone’s throw from the sea and the quaint town of Noto. The vineyards here thrive on white limestone soils, nestled among ancient olive and almond trees – a landscape as timeless as it is breathtaking. It’s a terroir that leaves a clear imprint on the wine: bright, mineral, and scented with Mediterranean herbs.
The man behind this wine is Dario, whose journey feels like a love letter to his roots. After studying agriculture and gathering experience, he returned to the land cultivated by his great-grandparents nearly a century ago. Since 2014, Dario’s vision has been clear: to craft wines that are honest, vibrant, and true to their origins. His philosophy is refreshingly simple – no pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, hand-harvesting only, indigenous yeasts, short macerations, and aging exclusively in stainless steel. The result? Wines that celebrate the purity and personality of their grape varieties and terroir without distraction.
A swirl of vitality. Sicily’s summer heartbeat.
CalaNiuru 2023 is a careful dance between two grapes harvested separately – Frappato is macerated for 7 to 10 days to coax out its juicy, floral character, while Nero d’Avola spends just a day on the skins, lending subtle structure and depth. Fermentation unfolds naturally in steel tanks, without added yeasts.
The profile is bright and immediate: think red cherries, black mulberries, wilted rose petals, and a hint of warm spices. The wine is fast and lean on the palate, a perfect harmony of fruit intensity and crisp, refreshing acidity balanced with gentle tannins. It’s a wine that clings ruthlessly to freshness, making it a true gastronomic partner, zen-like in its ability to accompany food without ever overwhelming it.
For me, CalaNiuru is the kind of wine you want on a warm summer evening, sharing laughter around the table with simple, flavorful dishes. It’s Sicilian summer in a glass – bright, genuine, and utterly welcoming.
